Grading between Sizes 

Grading between sizes on sewing patterns is an essential skill for achieving a perfect fit. Every body is unique, and standard sizes often don't accommodate individual curves and measurements. By understanding the basics of grading, you can modify a pattern to ensure it flatters your shape and enhances your confidence in what you create. Whether you need to adjust bust, waist, or hip measurements, the process involves carefully blending between the sizes of your pattern to transition smoothly for a tailored look. Please note this is different to a small or full bust adjustment. Let’s dive into a few key techniques and tips to help you master the art of blending and transform any sewing project into a delightful experience that feels like it was made just for you!

Step by Step Guide

Blending Between Sizes on a Sewing Pattern

If your measurements fall between sizes, blending between sizes is a perfect way to achieve a more tailored fit. Here’s a step-by-step tutorial to help you blend from a size 8 bodice to a size 12 waist and hip on a simple dress pattern with a bodice and gathered skirt. Please not that this is different to a FBA and a SBA.

Materials Needed

  • Dress pattern (size 8 bodice, size 12 waist and hips)

  • Measuring tape

  • French curve or ruler

  • Pencil

  • Scissors

  • arge paper or tracing paper

Step 1: Take Your Measurements

Measure your bust, waist, and hip. Write these down to compare with the size chart of your pattern.

Step 2: Identify the Sizes

Once you have found your desired sizes based on your measurements print out your pattern with only these sizes. If you have to print all sizes, use coloured highlighters to make it easier to see the sizes you need.

Do the following Based on your measurements

For this tutorial we have used:

  • Use size 8 for the bust

  • Use size 12 for the waist and hip.

Step 3: Trace the Bodice

  1. Lay your dress pattern flat on a large surface.

  2. Using your pencil, trace the size 8 bodice onto your pattern paper. Make sure to include all markings, such as darts and seam allowances.

Step 4: Mark the Size 12 Waist and Hip

  1. Find the waist and hip lines on the size 12 portion of the pattern.

  2. Trace these lines on the same pattern paper you used for the bodice, but don’t trace the entire bodice – just the waist and hip sections.

Step 5: Create the Blend

  1. Using your French curve or ruler, start at the underarm point of the size 8 bodice.

  2. Gradually draw a line down to the waist of the size 12 section, creating a smooth curve that transitions between the two sizes.

  3. Repeat this by blending from the waist of the size 12 down to the hip line, ensuring that the curve flows smoothly.

Step 6: Cut Out Your New Bodice

  1. Carefully cut along the new blended lines for your bodice pattern.

  2. After cutting, lay your new bodice piece flat to ensure that the lines are smooth and even.

Step 7: Add Seam Allowances and Markings

If your original pattern does not include seam allowances, make sure to add them to the edges of your newly blended bodice. As well as any required markings and notches. Note, all Sustainably Gabrielle patterns do have seam allowance included.

Step 8: Cut the Skirt Pieces

  1. Use the same blended bodice proportions to cut your gathered skirt according to the pattern.

  2. In this example the skirt can be a size 12, but you may need to blend the sizes at the waist where it connects to the bodice if the hip size is different.

Step 9: Assemble and Test Fit

  1. Sew the bodice and skirt together according to pattern instructions.

  2. Perform a test fit to ensure the bodice fits comfortably and the waist aligns perfectly.

Step 10: Final Adjustments

  1. Make any necessary adjustments at the side seams or waist to achieve the perfect fit.

  2. Once satisfied, complete the dress with hems and finishing touches.

Now you have successfully blended between sizes for a flattering, custom-fit dress! Enjoy the process and feel empowered in your handmade garment.